Trip Equipment

Where to fit a spare wheel is always a matter of personal choice, the only considerations are that they are easily accessible – even if you are stuck – and do not obstruct your visibility. On a Land-Rover the front hood and rear door can be utilised. Carrying spares on the roof rack could seem like a good idea until it time to unload them. They always seem heavier under stressful conditions.

A good reliable method of recovery is essential on every expedition or travel adventure. However this does not always mean that you need a winch. If you are travelling alone it is probably a good option but if you are travelling in a group a good tow strap attached to another vehicle should suffice.

None of the winches on the market will drag you out if you are completely bogged down. An electric winch under heavy strain is likely to burn out first.

On an expedition you should fit additional lighting as high up as possible to increase the distance visible at night. However unless you are VERY familiar with an area you should not drive at night anyway.

Brush Bars, Roo Bars, Protection Bars, whatever you want to call them they can be an essential piece of equipment in many areas of the world. Originally designed to protect the vehicle from collisions with wildlife - -if you’ve ever seen a car that hit something as small as a kangaroo or deer, you will understand. They provide just that extra piece of front protection and can also be utilised as a secure mounting point for a winch.

Purchase with care – many protection bars fitted as original equipment afford little protection and are for cosmetic purposes only.

Ideally you should be able to travel at least 500 miles without re-fuelling. You may be able to achieve this just by carrying a couple of Jerry cans but fitting an additional fuel tank will always be a safer option and easier to use and refill along the way. Some vehicles have ample extra space under the vehicle to fit an additional tank and many after-market manufacturers produce a wide range of tanks suitable for all applications.

For wading through any depth of water deeper than your wheel hubs it is highly recommended that you fit an external raised air intake – or snorkel. For real deep wading you will also need to make sure that the electrics are well waterproofed on Gas Engines.

A normal air intake and filter are housed within the engine bay where it is protected from the worst of the road dust. By raising the air intake and situating it externally you are going to increase the amount of dust sucked in. Because of this you should only ever fit snorkels that have their own built in air cleaners.

Not just for use in sand these worthwhile additions to your armoury can be used in any situations where the ground is less firm and where there is a possibility of sinking. Another good use is for a small ramp up steep rocks or very small bridge if needed. There are different types available. Some are just a rigid aluminium plate about 4-6ft long that can be carried on the side of the vehicle or roof rack. Another type is a roll-up matting that can be lighter and are easier to stow. There is also PVC type matting available but these should only be considered for light use as they wear quickly.

A High-Lift jack is another piece of essential equipment. They are quite heavy and bulky but can be easily carried on the roof rack or on the back of a vehicle. You should also have a jack-plate to spread the footprint of the jack when in use for added stability.

It would also be useful to carry a small bottle jack for working under the vehicle in tight situations. These can be easily stowed and on some vehicles are already carried as standard in the engine bay or cab.

Another type of jack that is developing a large user-base is the inflatable bag. This can be placed under a vehicle then pumped up by either connecting the inlet to the exhaust pipe or by using an air compressor. These become ideal in boggy or sandy conditions where other jacks can just sink. When deflated the take up very little room and are very light weight. Might want to check into this option!

Essential for carrying extra fuel and even water (never use the same can for both!) There are various versions available but generally the more you spend the better you will get. A cheaper can is often made from inferior steel and prone to rust that can get into the fuel supply and damage an engine.

NEVER under any circumstances use a PVC type fuel container. These are highly dangerous and should never be used to carry fuel for long distances. In extreme off-road conditions where it can get very hot these can build up a static electric charge that can easily spark and ignite during use. If you have no alternative but to use one of these in an emergency you should always wipe the can down with a damp cotton cloth before refuelling, this will dissipate most of the static.

As we previously mentioned, you should always consider a split-charge battery setup for long trips. Any extra electrical equipment can be run directly from the ‘spare’ and protect you from draining your main vehicle battery.

You should always get deep-cycle batteries that can be completely drained and re-charged continuously without affecting the performance of the battery

Not simply for inflating tires, a good air pump can be used for un-blocking fuel lines, blowing dust from the inside of a vehicle and inflating an air mattress.

There are various kinds available from small 12v units that operate from the cigar lighter (not recommended)to larger vehicle mounted electric units and mechanical or belt driven pumps that are mounted in the engine compartment.

Another alternative, but only for shorter trips, is to carry a compressed air or CO2 cannister for inflating tires or beds, these are very quick and easy to use but will run out quickly and require frequent re-charging.

A simple foot pump will often be just as good as a mechanical or electric pump – you just provide the power yourself! Make sure it is robustly built and has a large capacity to keep from killing yourself!

The Roof Tent option is becoming more and more popular for Expedition vehicles. Probably due to the increase in manufacturers now marketing them and their general good build quality. They are easy to store, easy to erect and keep you away from all the nasty things you wouldn't want to sleep with at ground level.

There are four ways to mount a Roof Tent, while your own personal opinion is probably more important than our advice there are a couple of points to note.

The most popular way to mount a roof tent is at the rear of the vehicle so that when it opens up it will overhang the back of the vehicle. This can have the added advantage of creating an extra 'room' by the rear door if you use extra flysheets to hang underneath. BUT it can sometimes obstruct access to the vehicle and the roof rack - most ladders access the back of a roof rack and if your tent is in the way you will not be able to get up there. Also you need to make sure that the tent is strong enough to support your weight if it is hanging in mid air unsupported

The second option is to have the tent mounted at the front of the vehicle so that when opened it overhangs the hood with an access ladder mounted to your grill guard. While this still allows access to the rear of the vehicle and the roof rack you will have the inconvenience of having to climb up the front of the vehicle to get to the ladder.

The third position is to mount it sideways at the front of the vehicle so that when opened it hangs over the side. This can still have the added bonus of creating that extra 'room' underneath the overhang and next to the front passenger door/s but you are not restricting access to the rear of the vehicle or the roof rack.

The final ,increasingly popular, option is to mount the tent on a trailer. While this has the advantage of being easier to handle and erect it will be bombarded with dirt, stones and sand thrown up from the vehicles rear tires. If you do chose to mount on a trailer you should only buy a model that is encased in a rigid fiberglass or aluminium shell.

Whichever mounting you choose it can be tempting to pack the tent with all sorts of bedding, clothing and other gear before folding it up like a suitcase. This will only add stress to the hinges and locking mechanisms and could result in premature failure. An air mattress would be ideal in this situation, allowing you to effectively reduce the amount of bedding packed into the tent. But you will then have to inflate and deflate every day.

The GPS unit (Global Positioning System) has fast become 'essential' equipment for expedition preparation. In conjunction with a good set of 1:50,000 maps you should never get lost again!

Never consider using a GPS alone, you should still carry regular maps to cross check routes etc. It is still easier to visualise your route on a map rather than a tiny GPS screen and the don't need batteries! Its very important to have a backup that doesnt require electricity.

You will also have the added advantage of being able to pre-program your route into the GPS before you set of.

A long-distance, high frequency radio-telephone can also be a worthwhile consideration. While they are likely to be expensive they can have a range of up to 700 miles in good conditions.

You will need to obtain the relevant licences or permits from the authorities in the countries you are visiting and you will need to be able to change the frequencies used to match the local systems.

You are no longer limited to buying an ex-military type trailer for your off-road trips. There are a multitude of manufacturers offering specific Expedition models or even custom builds. Here are a few things to look for when buying.

-Strong Steel Chassis

-Good Leaf or independent suspension

-Ability to use the same wheels and tyres as your tow vehicle

-The Track should match your tow vehicle (distance between wheels(same width)) -Dust and Water proof load area with drop-down rear panel -Eyelets or brackets for tying down and securing loads -Option to fit Jerry Can and Water bottle carriers

-Tight fitting lid with Gas struts for ease of opening -Good Quality and durable rear lighting ***BRAKES!***

Always pack a trailer so that it is slightly front heavy. Too much weight in the rear can have the effect of 'lifting' the rear wheels and loosing traction and stability. Don't load the towball over the manufacturers recommended limits.In serious off-road or rocky conditions it's worth securing the trailer coupling with a length of nylon rope to cut down vibration and limit the risk of loosing your load.

Towing a Trailer-

If your trailer is balanced and well packed you should not be overtly aware that you are towing it. Do not get carried away with it though driving at speeds over 12kph towing half a tonne of equipment is not recommended on anything but the best roads.

TIP: if your trailer is too low to see through your rear view mirror you could always fit a small flag at the rear corners, this will remind you that it is there and aid you in reversing.

Towing the extra weight will obviously increase your fuel consumption but will also make the engine run hotter as it is working harder. For any rough terrain you should automatically select 4 wheel drive and probably low-range too.

Your trailer will be thrown about far more than the tow vehicle so try to limit extreme movements to prolong its serviceable life.